How Sediment Buildup Can Affect Your Water Heater

A functional water heater is something that many homeowners take for granted. Whether you’re doing dishes, washing clothes or taking a shower, you’ll probably be using hot water. Your water heater is responsible for providing this hot water. Water heaters, however, can suffer from sediment buildup. Failure to flush out this sediment can affect your water heater in several ways.

What Is Sediment Buildup?

Sediment buildup is used to describe the accumulation of hard water minerals within a water heater. The water entering your home probably contains minerals such as calcium and magnesium. Known as hard water minerals, they typically don’t pose any risk to you and your family’s health. Calcium and magnesium, in fact, are essential nutrients that promote strong bones. As these minerals travel through your water heater, though, they may build up.

Clogged Filter

Sediment buildup can result in a clogged filter. Most water heaters have a filter. Consisting of a mesh screen, it’s designed to capture particulate matter. Your water heater’s filter may become clogged with sediment. As the sediment continues to build up, it will restrict the flow of water.

Insulates the Heating Element

Another way that sediment buildup can affect your water heater is by insulating the heating element. All water heaters have a heating element (or multiple heating elements). It’s the device, such as an electric heating coil, that’s responsible for heating the water. If left unchecked, sediment may form a barrier between the heating element and the water. The sediment will essentially act as insulation, making it harder for your water heater to perform its job.

Leaking T&P Valve

Your water heater’s temperature and pressure (T&P) valve may leak due to sediment buildup. T&P valves are designed to relieve excess pressure. They are exclusive to traditional tank-style water heaters. If you have a tank-style water heater, it will likely feature a T&P valve for safety purposes.

Sediment buildup can make your water heater work harder. The heating element may stay hot for a longer period, for instance. This additional heat will increase the pressure inside of your water heater while straining the T&P valve.

Higher Energy Bills

Your energy bills may be higher with sediment buildup in your water heater. Water heaters consume energy. Some of them consume electricity, whereas others consume gas. Regardless, your water heater will consume energy to heat your home’s water. If there’s too much sediment in it, your water heater will consume an excessive amount of energy, resulting in higher energy bills.

What Causes AC Compressors to Burn Out?

Compressor burnout can result in an uncomfortably hot summer for you and your family. All central air conditioning systems feature a compressor. It’s known colloquially as the “heart” of a central air conditioning system. Located in the condenser unit – the outdoor unit – the compressor is designed to increase the pressure of the refrigerant so that it becomes hotter. The condenser coil will then be able to release this heat, allowing the newly cooled refrigerant to enter the home and provide cooling power.

Compressors can burn out, however. A typical compressor has a lifespan of about 10 to 15 years. Regardless of your compressor’s age, it may burn out. When this occurs, it may be cheaper to replace the compressor rather than trying to fix it. By understanding what causes compressors to burn out, you can extend the life of your air conditioning system’s compressor.

Short Cycling

Short cycling can cause compressors to burn out. Short cycling is a phenomenon in which an air conditioning system frequently turns on and off while running for short periods. These runtime periods are cooling cycles. Each time your air conditioning system turns on, the compressor will start up. With short cycling, all of these startups can wear down the compressor while increasing its chance of premature failure.

Low Refrigerant

Maintaining proper refrigerant levels is essential to your compressor’s health. Compressors are designed to pressurize refrigerant, which in turn raises the temperature of the refrigerant. If your air conditioning system is low on refrigerant, your compressor will essentially be compressing air. Over time, this can damage your compressor and potentially cause it to burn out.                                            

Contaminants

Contaminants can spell disaster for compressors. Air conditioning systems are designed to be closed, meaning only refrigerant should run through their respective parts. But instances can occur that allow contaminants to enter an air conditioning system. If your air conditioning system has a leak, or if it was recently serviced, for instance, contaminants like moisture may enter it. Upon reaching the compressor, these contaminants may damage the compressor.

Overheating

While their primary job is to raise the pressure and temperature of the refrigerant, compressors can burn out if they get too hot. Overheating, in fact, is one of the leading causes of compressor burnout. Most compressors are lubricated with oil. If they get too hot, the oil will burn off. This will increase the friction of the compressor’s moving parts, potentially causing catastrophic failure.

Floor vs Ceiling Vents: What You Should Know

Air vents are found exclusively on the ceiling. In many homes, they are found on the ceiling and floor. If your home has both floor and ceiling air vents, you might be wondering how they differ. While the placement of an air vent may sound insignificant, it can affect your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system’s performance.

Floor Air Vents

Floor air vents are typically more effective at heating than their ceiling-installed counterparts. This is because hot air rises.

When running a furnace during the winter, hot air will travel through the ductwork under the floors before being released out of the floor air vents. Upon exiting the floor air vents, the hot air will begin to rise. It will travel from the floor to the ceiling while simultaneously heating all of the space through which it passes.

Ceiling Air Vents

Ceiling air vents, on the other hand, are more effective at cooling. Cool air does the opposite of hot air. While hot air rises, cool air descends.

Adjusting ceiling air vents so that they point downward will result in a cooler home during the summer. The cool will naturally gravitate from the ceiling to the floor. If you live in Georgia, you may want to prioritize ceiling air vents for this reason. Georgia has relatively mild winters, but it almost always has hot and humid summers.

Other Considerations

There are other things to consider when planning the placement of supply air vents, such as insulation. You should install air vents in spaces where they are properly insulated. If there’s little or no insulation in your basement or crawlspace, floor air vents may result in increased energy expenses. Assuming your attic is properly insulated, ceiling air vents will probably be a better choice.

You should also consider the layout of your home. Some homes have a tall and open layout, which can make it difficult to access ceiling air vents. If you’re planning to install new ductwork and air vents, choose a placement that’s easy to access and works for your home’s layout.

Where is your furnace located? Most furnaces are installed in either the basement or crawlspace, or they are installed in the attic. The conditioned air will have to travel from this area to the supply air vents. If your furnace is located in the basement or crawlspace, floor air vents will result in a shorter travel distance, which may result in increased energy efficiency.

5 Common Myths About Mini-Split AC Systems

Mini-split air conditioning systems offer a convenient, as well as cost-effective, way to cool indoor spaces. They are fully functional air conditioning systems consisting of coils, a compressor and refrigerant. Mini-split air conditioning systems are simply distinguished from their central counterparts by their lack of ductwork. Only central air conditioning systems have ductwork. There are several myths about mini-split air conditioning systems, however, that you shouldn’t believe.

#1) Not Efficient

Some homeowners assume that mini-split air conditioning systems aren’t energy efficient. This couldn’t be further from the truth. While some of them are more efficient than others, nearly all mini-split air conditioning systems are very efficient. Since they don’t have ductwork, conditioned air won’t be able to leak into unoccupied spaces of your home like the attic, basement or walls.

#2) No Air Filtration

Another common myth is that mini-split air conditioning systems don’t filter the air. They may not have any ductwork, but mini-split air conditioning systems will still filter the air – just like central air conditioning systems. They have a mesh filter through which air must pass. As the air passes through this mesh filter, it will become cleaner. The filter will trap dust, bacteria, dander and other airborne pollutants, resulting in cleaner air for you and your family.

#3) Short Lifespan

Mini-split air conditioning systems don’t have a short lifespan. Most of them will last for up to two decades. Some of them will last even longer. Mini-split air conditioning systems don’t have ductwork, so you don’t have to worry about getting the air ducts cleaned or repaired. With fewer components, they are easier to maintain, which may manifest in the former of a longer lifespan.

#4) Can’t Be Used With a Central AC System

Even if your home is already equipped with a central air conditioning system, you can still get a mini-split air conditioning system installed. Many homes feature both types of climate-control systems. They may use a central air conditioning system for their home’s main living spaces and a mini-split air conditioning system for a finished basement or guest bedroom.

#5) Only Available With Cooling

All mini-split air conditioning systems can cool your home, but some of them can heat your home as well. Known as mini-split “heat pumps,” they are packaged heat pump systems. They feature many of the same components as traditional mini-split air conditioning systems. Only mini-split heat pumps, however, provide heating. They can cool your home by transferring heat to the outdoors, and they can heat your home by absorbing heat from the outside air and pumping it into your home.

Why Your Thermostat Showing Wrong Temperature

Is your thermostat showing the wrong temperature? All central heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems have a thermostat. It’s the primary interface with which you can control your HVAC system’s equipment.

The thermostat will display the current temperature. After setting it to the appropriate mode (heating vs cooling), you can set the desired temperature. Your HVAC system will then run until this temperature has been reached. If your thermostat is displaying the wrong temperature, though, your HVAC system will either make your home too hot or too cold.

Faulty Sensor

Your thermostat may show the wrong “current” temperature if the sensor is faulty. Thermostats work in conjunction with a temperature sensor. The temperature sensor will measure the temperature of the air, and the thermostat will display it. If the temperature sensor fails, the thermostat may display the wrong temperature.

Poor Sensor Placement

Even if the temperature sensor is functional, poor placement may result in your thermostat showing the wrong temperature. Some of the rooms and spaces in your home may have a different temperature than others. The temperature sensor, of course, will only measure the temperature of the immediate, surrounding air.

Some thermostats have a temperature sensor built into them. Therefore, installing the thermostat near a heat source like a sun-lit window may result in a higher-than-normal temperature. Other thermostats use a remote sensor. Regardless, if your thermostat is displaying the wrong temperature, you should check the sensor placement.

Unlevel Mercury-Based Thermostat

Older thermostats use mercury to measure the temperature of the surrounding air. If you have one of these mercury-based thermostats, you need to make sure it’s level. An unlevel mercury-based thermostat won’t be able to measure the correct temperature. If it’s titled or otherwise not level, it will display the wrong temperature, which will throw off your HVAC system’s performance.

Low Batteries

Another possible reason your thermostat is showing the wrong temperature is low batteries. Most thermostats use batteries. Some of them use batteries for all of their functions, whereas others only use batteries for backup and programming purposes.

Low batteries may cause issues with your thermostat. Your thermostat may show the wrong temperature, or it may not show any temperature. Fortunately, this is a quick fix. Just remove the cover on your thermostat, pull out the dead batteries and replace them with new batteries of the same type.

What Is a Hard Start Kit for AC Systems?

Hard start kits are commonly used to get older air conditioning systems up and running. As air conditioning systems begin to age, they may have trouble starting on their own. And even if they’re able to start, they may shut off prematurely without reaching the temperature set of the thermostat. A hard start kit may resolve hard starts such as this, but there are a few things you should know about them.

The Basics of a Hard Start Kit

A hard start kit is a device that, as the name suggests, is designed to fix hard starts with air conditioning systems. A hard start is a phenomenon in which an air conditioning system struggles to start on its own.

Here are some common signs that your air conditioning system is hard starting:

·         Doesn’t turn on when you lower the temperature on the thermostat (and have it set to cooling).

·         Air conditioning system is short cycling by turning on and off frequently.

·         You constantly hear a “clicking” noise.

AC systems require a substantial amount of electricity to start up – more than they need to stay running. Without this jolt of electricity, they may struggle to turn on and stay on. A hard start kit consists of a capacitor and relay device that makes it easier for the compressor to fire up.

How a Hard Start Kit Works

Most of the electricity consumed during the startup of an air conditioning system is used to power the compressor. Air conditioning systems have a compressor that’s designed to pressurize and move the heat-carrying refrigerant through the coils and lines. When your air conditioning system initially turns on, the compressor will consume electricity.

A hard start kit will reduce the burden placed on your air conditioning system’s compressor. Once installed, it will allow the compressor to fire up with less torque. The hard start kit will essentially provide the compressor with more torque. At the same time, the relay in the hard start kit will keep your air conditioning system running more smoothly.

In Conclusion

Homeowners who experience hard starting with their air conditioning system may want to consider a hard start kit. Consisting of a capacitor and relay, it can resolve this problem. But hard starting is often attributed to an underlying issue, such as an old and worn-out compressor. If your air conditioning system is having trouble starting, you should get it professionally inspected.

Understanding Your AC System’s Float Switch and How It Works

Many air conditioning systems are designed with a float switch. Also known as an overflow switch, it’s designed to prevent water from spilling over the top of the condensate pan. Because it’s located near the evaporator coil, though, the float switch often goes unnoticed by homeowners. It’s not until a problem occurs with the float switch that homeowners begin to take notice.

What Is a Float Switch?

A flow switch is a small device that automatically shuts down the air conditioning system with which it’s used when the water reaches a certain level in the condensate pan. Like all switches, it controls a circuit. The float switch will open the circuit as the water level rises, thereby shutting down the air conditioning system.

How Float Switches Work

When inspecting your air conditioning system’s evaporator coil, you may notice a metal pan directly below it. This is the condensate pan. As the name suggests, it’s designed to catch condensation. Airborne moisture will condense on the evaporator coil, after which it will drip into the condensate pan.

At the bottom of the condensate pan is a drain that runs to your home’s exterior. Normally, water will travel through this drain and exit the condensate pan. There are instances, however, in which the drain may become clogged. Mildew buildup can result in a clogged drain. The moist environment encourages the growth of mildew-causing fungi within the drain. Regardless, the water level will continue to rise in the condensate drain if the drain is clogged – unless there’s a functional float switch in place.

The float switch is designed to prevent water from spilling over the top of the condensate pan. Upon reaching a high enough level on the condensate pan, the water will activate the float switch. The float switch will detect the presence of the water, at which point it will shut off the air conditioning system.

Do All AC Systems Have a Float Switch?

While they play an important role in protecting against water damage, not all air conditioning systems have a float switch. Many residential air conditioning systems are designed without them.

If your air conditioning doesn’t already have one, you may want to add a float switch. It will give you peace of mind knowing that water won’t spill over the top of the condensate pan. Even if the drain is clogged, the float switch will simply shut off your air conditioning system. Once turned off, your air conditioning system will no longer produce condensation at the evaporator coil.

What Is an Inverter Heat Pump?

Heat pumps have come a long way over the years. In the 1960s, they had limited functionality, with most of them only offering heating. Heat pumps today, however, can both heat and cool indoor spaces. Many modern heat pumps can even run at variable speeds. Known as inverter heat pumps, they offer a superior level of energy efficiency. What is an inverter heat pump exactly, and how does it differ from a traditional heat pump?

Overview of Inverter Heat Pumps

An inverter heat pump is a type of heat pump with a variable power output. In other words, the speed at which it operates may vary from 0% to 100%. Inverter heat pumps will analyze environmental conditions, such as the temperature of the home. Using this data, they will adjust their power output. All of this happens automatically without any input or assistance from the homeowner.

Inverter vs Traditional Heat Pumps

All heat pumps are designed to transfer heat from an indoor space to an outdoor space and vice versa. They feature many of the same components as air conditioning systems, including an indoor coil and an outdoor coil. Refrigerant will flow through a heat pump’s two coils while transferring heat. The direction in which the refrigerant travels will determine whether the heat pump is in heating or cooling mode.

The difference between inverter and traditional heat pumps lies in their power output. Inverter heat pumps will change their power output from 0% to 100% automatically. Traditional heat pumps have a fixed power output that’s either on or off.

Some of the benefits of choosing an inverter heat pump include the following:

·         More energy efficient than a traditional heat pump

·         Cost-savings in the form of lower utility bills

·         More even and consistent indoor temperature

·          Quieter operation that many homeowners prefer

·         Better humidity regulation

·         Better protection against wear and tear

How Inverter Heat Pumps Work

Inverter heat pumps leverage a special type of compressor. Like air conditioning systems, all heat pumps need a compressor to pressurize the refrigerant. But inverter heat pumps use a variable-speed compressor.

The variable-speed compressor is an inverter heat pump is what changes its power output. As the demand for heating or cooling increases in the home, the variable-speed compressor will increase its power output. As the demand for heating or cooling decreases, conversely, so will its power output.

5 Things You Didn’t Know About AC Refrigerant

Refrigerant plays an important role in your air conditioning system’s performance. It’s the medium used to transfer heat from the indoor air to the outside of your home. While most homeowners have at least heard of refrigerant, though, many of them are unfamiliar with its properties and how it works. Here are five things you didn’t know about air conditioning refrigerant.

#1) Up to 20 Pounds Per AC System

Air conditioning systems use a lot of refrigerant. A typical residential air conditioning system may use 10 to 20 pounds of refrigerant, whereas commercial air conditioning systems use even more refrigerant. Air conditioning systems are closed, meaning the refrigerant shouldn’t escape. But leaks can occur that result in lower refrigerant levels, in which the air conditioning system must be repaired.

#2) Changes Between a Gas and Fluid State

As it travels through your air conditioning system, refrigerant will cycle between a gas and fluid state. It will leave the evaporator coil as a gas. At the condenser coil, the refrigerant will change to a liquid. It will repeat this cycle indefinitely while your air conditioning system is running.

#3) R22 Is No Longer Produced or Imported

If your air conditioning system still uses R22 refrigerant, you may want to upgrade it to a newer model. RSS is no longer produced or imported in the United States. As a hydrofluorocarbon (HCFC), it’s been shown to damage the Ozone layer when released into the atmosphere. This has prompted many countries, including the United States, to regulate its use.

#4) Frozen Coils Indicate Low Refrigerant

Frozen coils are a telltale sign of low refrigerant. When refrigerant begins to leak out of an air conditioning system, it will result in lower pressure. Moisture vapor will then condense and freeze on the coils. This may only affect the evaporator coil, or it may affect both the evaporator coil and the condenser coil. Regardless, many homeowners notice frozen coils when their air conditioning system is leaking refrigerant.

#5) R-410A Uses a Different Pressure Than R-22

In the past, most air conditioning systems used R-22 refrigerant. Today, R-410A has become the most common type of refrigerant used in residential air conditioning systems. It serves the same purpose of acting as a heat medium to facilitate the transfer of heat. However, R-410A uses a different pressure than R-22, so they aren’t interchangeable. You can’t just replace R-22 with R-410A. If your air conditioning system still uses R-22, you’ll need to upgrade it so that it will accommodate the newer and more Eco-friendly R-410A refrigerant.

What Is a Hybrid Water Heater?

Hybrid water heaters are on the rise. They offer an energy-efficient alternative to conventional water heaters. Most water heaters, of course, use either natural gas or electricity. Natural gas water heaters typically cost less to use, whereas electric water heaters are easier to install and maintain. But there’s a type that often goes unnoticed: hybrid. What is a hybrid water exactly, and how does it work?

Overview of Hybrid Water Heaters

A hybrid water heater is a device that heats the water in a home via heat transfer. It features a tank in which the heated water is stored. The size of this tank can vary, with some hybrid waters holding up to 30 gallons of water and others holding 80 or more gallons of water. Regardless, all hybrid water heaters are characterized by their heating method. Also known as heat pump water heaters (HPWHs), they transfer heat from the surrounding air to the tank in order to heat the water.

How Hybrid Water Heaters Work

Hybrid water heaters work by using an evaporator coil – along with refrigerant – to absorb heat from the surrounding air.  At the top of a hybrid water heater is an evaporator coil. As warm air blows over it, the evaporator coil will absorb heat.

Refrigerant within the evaporator coil will become hotter. This hot refrigerant will then flow from the evaporator coil to a coil-like heating element within the tank, thereby heating the stored water.

Should You Switch to a Hybrid Water Heater?

Hybrid water heaters are highly efficient. Since they use heat from the surrounding air, they require less energy than conventional electric and gas water heaters. You may be able to save money on your monthly water bills by switching to a hybrid water heater.

Most hybrid water heaters will automatically switch to electricity during periods of high demand. This is why they are known as hybrid water heaters. If you’re drawing hot water faster than the rate at which it can heat the stored water via heat transfer, it will use electricity.

While energy efficient and reliable, hybrid water heaters aren’t suitable for all climates. They typically work best in warm and moderate climates. In cold climates, hybrid water heaters may struggle if there’s not enough heat in the surrounding air.

It’s also worth noting that hybrid waters require more clearance than conventional water heaters. You can’t install them in a small closet. Rather, hybrid water heaters must be installed in an open space where they can absorb heat from the surrounding air.

3 Ways to Cool a Finished Basement

If your home has a finished basement, you might be wondering how to cool this space. Finished basements can quickly heat up during the summer months. Whether you use it as a guest bedroom, a recreational area or simply a storage area, you may want to cool your finished basement. Investing in the right cooling solution will create a more comfortable lower-level space while also protecting your basement from heat- and humidity-related damage.

#1) Window AC Unit

Assuming it has windows, you can cool your finished basement with a window air conditioning unit. Window air conditioning units are small, packaged cooling systems that are designed for use in windows. They feature a condenser coil, compressor coil, compressor and fan – all in a single unit.

Window air conditioning units are inexpensive and easy to install. As long as you choose a high British Thermal Unit (BTU) unit, you can rest assured knowing that it will provide plenty of cooling power. The downside to using a window air conditioning unit is that it requires a window. And because they are installed in windows, they may suffer from leaks that allow cool air to escape.

#2) Mini-Split AC System

Not all basements have windows, however. You can still cool a windowless finished basement, but you should consider using a mini-split air conditioning system instead of a window air conditioning system. You can install a mini-split air conditioning system in any room or indoor space, regardless of whether it has windows.

Mini-split air conditioning systems consist of two components: an indoor unit and an outdoor unit. Refrigerant will flow between these units while removing the heat from your finished basement. During this heat-transfer process, the indoor unit will release cool, conditioned air.

#3) Add an HVAC Zone

Another option is to add an HVAC zone to your finished basement. HVAC zones are spaces in which the climate can be controlled independently of the other HVAC zones or spaces. They are the foundation of a zoned HVAC system. All zoned HVAC systems have multiple HVAC zones. You can raise or lower the temperature of a given HVAC zone without it affecting the temperature of the other HVAC zones.

HVAC zones use air ducts and dampers. You can’t just add new air ducts to cool your basement with an HVAC zone. In addition to new air ducts, you’ll need dampers. Dampers are valve-like devices that can restrict or allow air to flow through air ducts.

Is Your AC System Undercharged? Warning Signs to Look For

You can’t expect your air conditioning system to effectively cool your home if it’s undercharged. Air conditioning systems run on refrigerant. Typically consisting of R-410A, it’s a hydrofluorocarbon that acts as a medium for heat. Refrigerant will absorb heat from your home’s indoor air. After traveling to the outdoor coil, it will release this heat.

Longer Cooling Cycles

An undercharged air conditioning system will result in longer cooling cycles. It takes time for air conditioning systems to achieve the temperature set on the thermostat. The duration for which your air conditioning system before turning off is a cooling cycle. If it’s undercharged, it will struggle to cool your home. Your air conditioning system may still be able to achieve the temperature set on the thermostat, but it will typically take longer.

High Humidity

If your home feels more humid than usual, an undercharged air conditioning system could be to blame. There’s always some moisture vapor in the air. A typical home has a relative humidity level of about 40% to 50%, meaning the indoor air is holding about half as much moisture as it can hold at that temperature. If your home’s relative humidity level is about 60%, you may want to get your air conditioning system inspected by a professional.

An undercharged air conditioning system may not be able to remove a sufficient amount of moisture vapor from the air. Therefore, your home will become more humid. The relative humidity level of your home will increase, which can manifest in the form of mold, mildew and moisture damage.

Frozen Coils

Frozen coils is a telltale sign of an undercharged air conditioning system. Both the evaporator coil and condenser coil feature meal fins. If there’s not enough refrigerant flowing through them, the coils may freeze. Ice may form on the metal fins – even during the hot summer months. The lack of refrigerant will interfere with the heat exchange process, resulting in one or more frozen coils.

Increased Cooling Costs

If you’re paying more to cool your home, you may want to check your air conditioning system. An undercharged air conditioning system can lead to increased cooling costs. Without the right amount of refrigerant, your air conditioning system will become less efficient. It will run for longer, so you’ll have to pay more to cool your home.

Some of the most common signs of an undercharged air conditioning system include longer cooling cycles, high humidity, frozen coils and increased cooling costs. If you notice any of these signs, contact a heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) professional today to schedule an inspection.

Corrosion and Your AC System: Keeping Rust at Bay

Corrosion is a leading cause of air conditioning system failure. It involves the oxidation of metal. When the metal components in an air conditioning system, such as coils or electrical contacts, are exposed to oxygen, they may experience a chemical reaction. Known as oxidation, this chemical reaction will convert the metal into a chemical oxide, such as iron oxide or “rust.”

Why Corrosion Is a Concern

When ignored, corrosion can damage your air conditioning system. It will eat through the metal components. The condenser coil and evaporator coil, for instance, consist of metal fins. You can always straighten these fins if they are only bent. If the fins are corroded, though, you’ll have to replace the damaged coil.

You may not be able to turn on your air conditioning system if it’s heavily corroded. There are dozens of electrical contacts in a typical air conditioning system. Consisting of conductive wires and connectors, they allow electricity to flow through the various electrical components. Corrosion can develop on these electrical connections. As the corrosion builds up, it may interfere with their operation, meaning some of your air conditioning system’s electrical components may not receive power.

Your air conditioning system may experience a refrigerant leak if it’s heavily corroded. Air conditioning systems are pressurized. Pressurization allows the refrigerant to move through your air conditioning system while simultaneously collecting and releasing heat. Corrosion, however, can create weaknesses in your air conditioning system that, if left unchecked, allow refrigerant to escape.

How to Protect Your AC System From Corrosion

There are several steps you can take to protect your air conditioning system from corrosion. Start by checking the condensate drain to see if it’s clogged. It’s found directly below the evaporator coil. When moisture forms on the evaporator coil, it will drip into a pan connected to the condensate drain. A clogged condensate drain will prevent moisture from draining, which will increase the risk of corrosion on the evaporator coil.

Getting your air conditioning system’s filter drier changed on a regular basis can protect it from corrosion. Filter driers are devices that are designed to remove moisture from the refrigerant lines. Only refrigerant should travel through the refrigerant lines. If moisture enters them, the lines may corrode. A filter drier will absorb moisture so that the refrigerant lines are better protected against corrosion. For maximum protection, you may want to get your filter driver replaced once every few years.

How to Maintain Your Condenser Unit: A Homeowner’s Guide

Maintaining your condenser unit will improve the performance of your air conditioning system. Located outdoors, the condenser unit contains several essential components. Within this box-shaped unit is a fan, compressor and coil, all of which work harmoniously together to cool your home. Here’s a brief guide on how to maintain your condenser unit.

Check for Ice

You should regularly check your condenser unit for signs of ice. Ice indicates an underlying problem. Under normal circumstances, neither the condenser unit nor any other part of your air conditioning system should develop ice. If you notice ice on the condenser unit – or within the condenser unit itself – you’ll need to investigate the problem.

Maybe your air ducts are clogged, or perhaps your air conditioning system is leaking refrigerant. Problems such as restricted airflow and low refrigerant levels can manifest in the form of a frozen condenser unit.

Trim the Foliage

Condenser units are often exposed to foliage. After all, they are installed outdoors. If you have bushes, flowers, weeds or other foliage growing on your property, you should keep it away from your condenser unit. Allowing foliage such as this to encroach upon your condenser unit may result in poorer cooling performance. Your air conditioning system may struggle to keep your home cool due to the overgrown condenser unit.

The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) recommends trimming back foliage at least 2 feet from the condenser unit. That will provide your condenser unit with enough “breathing room” to effectively release heat.

Get a Professional Inspection

When was the last time your condenser unit was professionally inspected? If it’s been longer than a year, you should schedule an appointment with a heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technician.

You won’t be able to access the components inside of the condenser unit unless you open it. Unless you’re familiar with HVAC systems and how they work, though, you shouldn’t attempt to open it yourself. Instead, you should hire an HVAC technician.

An HVAC technician can open your condenser unit to inspect the enclosed components. During the inspection, the HVAC technician may check to make sure the fins on the coil are straight. If any of the fins are bent, the HVAC technician may straighten them using a special tool known as a fin comb. The HVAC technician may also check the compressor and fan during the inspection to ensure they are working as intended.

Why Your AC System Isn’t Dehumidifying

If your home feels more humid than usual, you may want to get your air conditioning system inspected. Split-system units with an indoor coil and an outdoor coil are designed to dehumidify indoor spaces. The blower will push warm air over the indoor coil. As the air cools, condensation will form. The indoor coil will essentially absorb both heat and moisture from the air, thus cooling and dehumidifying your home. The following problems, however, may interfere with the dehumidification process.

Only the Fan Is Running

Your air conditioning system must be running in order for it to dehumidify your home. If only the fan is running, it won’t be able to remove heat and moisture from the air. Check your thermostat to see if the fan is set to ON or AUTO. The ON setting will allow the fan to run continuously, whereas the AUTO setting will only allow the fan to run when your air conditioning system is running.

Dirty Evaporator Coil

A dirty evaporator coil may prevent your air conditioning system from dehumidifying your home. Located near the furnace or air handler, the evaporator coil is the indoor coil. It contains a series of hollow tubes that carry refrigerant.

As a heat exchanger, the evaporator coil must be clean to perform its job. If it’s coated in dust, dirt and other forms of debris, it won’t be able to absorb heat from the air. And if it can’t absorb heat, it won’t be able to effectively dehumidify your home. You should check the evaporator coil to determine whether dirt and debris is to blame for your air conditioning system’s poor dehumidification.

AC System Is Too Big

You might be surprised to learn that the size of your air conditioning system can affect its dehumidification process. If your air conditioning system is too big for your home, it may struggle to dehumidify your home. An oversized system will quickly cool your home. These short cycles may fail to offer a sufficient amount of time for dehumidification.

Clogged Condensate Drain

A clogged condensate drain can interfere with your air conditioning system’s dehumidification process. Below the evaporator coil is a pan connected to a drain. As water vapor condenses on the evaporator coil, it will drip into this pan. At the base of the pan is the condensate drain, which runs to your home’s exterior.

Condensate drains can become clogged. As water travels through them, they’ll provide a breeding ground for mildew. Mildew will grow inside of the condensate drain while subsequently restricting the flow of water.

What Is a Refrigerant Evacuation? Here’s What You Should Know

Refrigerant evacuation is a common service performed by heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technicians. Air conditioning systems and heat pumps rely on refrigerant to transfer heat. Air conditioning systems use it to move heat from the inside of a home to the outside. Heat pumps use refrigerant to move heat from the inside to the outside or vice versa, depending on whether they are in heating or cooling mode.

Whether you’re getting your existing air conditioning system or heat pump serviced, or if you’re looking to install a new system, refrigerant evacuation may be required. It’s a common service performed by HVAC technicians. What is refrigerant evacuation, and why is it necessary?

Overview of Refrigerant Evacuation

Refrigerant evacuation is an HVAC service that’s designed to remove all contaminants from the refrigerant passages in an air conditioning system or heat pump. It involves the use of a vacuum machine.

During a refrigerant evacuation service, an HVAC technician will connect a vacuum machine to the system. When activated, the vacuum machine will use negative pressure to suck out contaminants like air, moisture and nitrogen.

Degassing and Dehydration

There are two stages in refrigerant evacuation: degassing and dehydration. Degassing, as the name suggests, involves the removal of all gas from the refrigerant passages. Dehydration, in comparison, involves the removal of all moisture from the refrigerant passages. Degassing occurs first, followed by dehydration.

Reasons for Refrigerant Evacuation

When an air conditioning system or heat pump is serviced, it may require refrigerant evacuation. Refrigerant is designed to operate in a sealed, enclosed environment. Air conditioning systems and heat pumps should only contain refrigerant in their refrigerant passages. When a system is serviced, the HVAC technician may have to breach this otherwise sealed environment, thereby allowing contaminants to enter the refrigerant passages.

Refrigerant evacuation will remove contaminants from the refrigerant lines. Even if air or moisture entered the lines when the system was being serviced, this vacuum-based process will remove the contaminants.

New air conditioning systems and heat pumps often require refrigerant evacuation. Proper installation requires purging the refrigerant passages of all contaminants. If a new air conditioning system or heat pump contains contaminants, it may perform poorly. Even if the contaminants don’t affect its performance, though, they will expose the system to increased wear and tear. Refrigerant evacuation prevents problems such as these by removing contaminants from the refrigerant passages.

An Introduction to Common Heat Pump Noises and What They Mean

Heat pumps have become a popular alternative to traditional heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems. Rather than purchasing an air conditioning system and a furnace, many homeowners in warm regions like the Southeast purchase a heat pump. It’s a dual-purpose system that can heat and cool indoor spaces. Whether you currently own or are thinking about purchasing a heat pump, however, you may hear some noises when it runs.

Startup

Heat pumps often make a clicking sound during startup. This clicking sound is typically caused by a relay switch. Also known as control relays, relay switches are electrical switches that control a circuit. They allow heat pumps to turn on and off by completing or disrupting the flow of electricity. When your heat pump initially turns on, you may hear a clicking sound as the relay completes the flow of electricity.

Defrost Mode

You may hear your heat pump make a humming noise as it enters defrost mode. Defrost mode, as the name suggests, is designed to defrost the heat pump. Heat pumps feature an outdoor coil and an indoor coil. During the winter, the outdoor coil may freeze over. Fortunately, most heat pumps have a defrost mode that will melt ice off the outdoor coil, which typically sounds like a humming noise.

Bad Compressor

While some heat pump noises are normal, others are a sign of an underlying problem. If your heat pump has a bad compressor, for instance, you may hear a grinding noise. A grinding noise indicates the compressor’s internal parts are worn out.

Heat pumps have a compressor just like air conditioning systems have a compressor. The compressor raises the pressure of the system’s refrigerant. When the bearings or other components in the compressor wear out, it may manifest in the form of grinding noise.

Loose Belt

A loose belt can make an unusual noise. Many heat pumps feature a belt-driven fan. Over time, this belt can become loose. It won’t have the proper tension, so it will make a squealing or whistling noise. If you hear sounds such as these coming from the ductwork entrance near the indoor coil, you may be dealing with a loose belt.

Refrigerant Leak

Heat pumps can experience refrigerant leaks. Like air conditioning systems, they consist of a closed system with lines and coils. Refrigerant will travel through this system while absorbing and releasing heat. If your heat pump has a refrigerant leak, you may hear a hissing noise. A hissing noise indicates that refrigerant is leaking out of a line or coil.

Reasons to Upgrade an Old Thermostat

How old is your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system’s thermostat? The thermostat serves as the control interface for your HVAC system. You can adjust the temperature while subsequently activating your air conditioning system, furnace or heat pump. While all thermostats provide an interface for controlling HVAC equipment, though, old thermostats fall short in several ways. If you have an old thermostat, you may want to upgrade it to a new thermostat for the following reasons.

Improved Functionality

You can take advantage of improved functionality by upgrading your old thermostat. In the past, thermostats were designed with limited features. You could use them to raise or lower the temperature in your home, but that’s about it. New thermostats are equipped with additional features, such as Wi-Fi connectivity, mobile app control, programming and more.

Energy Efficiency

Upgrading your old thermostat may result in a more energy-efficient HVAC system. According to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE), switching to a programmable thermostat can save homeowners up to 10% on their electricity bills. If you have an old thermostat that doesn’t support programming, making the switch will likely prove to be a smart investment.

Good for the Environment

New thermostats are good for the environment. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) says that using a programmable thermostat can save up to 150 pounds of carbon dioxide emissions each year. They are more energy efficient than old thermostats. Not only will it save you money on electricity bills, but a new thermostat will promote a cleaner environment by minimizing carbon dioxide emissions.

Compatibility

If you’re planning on upgrading your HVAC system in the near future, you may have to upgrade the thermostat as well. Thermostats aren’t universally interchangeable. Old thermostats may not work with a new HVAC system. Alternatively, new thermostats may not work with an old HVAC system. If you have an old thermostat that’s not compatible with your HVAC system, you may want to upgrade it.

Greater Comfort

Perhaps the most notable reason to upgrade an old thermostat is greater comfort. Old thermostats have limited temperature control options, which can make it difficult to maintain a consistent and comfortable temperature in your home. A new thermostat, on the other hand, can precise temperature control, allowing you to adjust the temperature to your exact preference. Additionally, programmable and smart thermostats can automatically adjust the temperature based on your schedule.

Blow-Through vs Draw-Through Blower Setup: What’s the Difference?

Blowers are typically installed in a blow-through or draw-through setup. All residential and commercial heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems have a motorized fan. Known as a blower, it’s connected to the air ducts. The blower will move air over the evaporator coil to condition it, after which the conditioned air will enter the ductwork. There are different setups available for blowers, however, including blow-through or draw-through.

What Is a Blow-Through Setup?

A blow-through setup is a design in which the blower is placed before the evaporator coil. Air conditioning systems, as well as heat pumps, have an evaporator coil. Consisting of a series of metal, hollow tubes, it acts as a heat exchanger. Hot refrigerant will travel through the inner passages of the evaporator coil. As air moves over the evaporator coil, the refrigerant will become cooler.

The blower is designed to move air over the evaporator coil and into the ductwork. In a blow-through setup, the blower is installed directly before the evaporator coil. It’s known as a “blow-through” setup because it blows air forward.

What Is a Draw-Through Setup?

A draw-through setup is a design in which the blower is placed after the evaporator coil. The blower still serves the same purpose of moving air over the evaporator coil; it simply uses a different method of operation.

In a draw-through setup, the blower will pull or draw air over the evaporator coil and into the ductwork. You can find the blower after the evaporator coil. When running your air conditioning system, the blower will pull or draw air from the surrounding space. The air will pass over the evaporator coil where it helps to release heat from the coil’s refrigerant.

Differences Between Blow-Through and Draw-Through

The placement of the blower in relation to the air conditioning system’s evaporator coil will determine whether it uses a blow-through or draw-through setup. Blow-through setups involve the blower being placed before the evaporator coil. Draw-through setups, in comparison, involve the blower being placed after the evaporator coil.

Draw-through setups are oftentimes more efficient than blow-through setups. They can move air over the evaporator coil in a more uniform pattern, resulting in a higher level of efficiency. In addition to being more energy efficient, draw-through setups may provide better dehumidification. They can remove more moisture vapor from the air than their blow-through counterparts. With that said, the differences between blow-through and draw-through setups are minimal at best for residential HVAC systems.

5 Common Myths About HVAC Air Filters

The air filter is an important part of your home’s heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system. Located near the furnace or blower, it’s designed to remove particulate matter from the air. Before entering the ductwork, air must pass through the filter. The job of the air filter is to remove dust and other forms of particulate matter. There are several myths about air filters, however, that you shouldn’t believe.

#1) Only Affect Air Quality

Air filters affect more than just the quality of air in a home; they affect the performance of the home’s HVAC system. A dirty air filter will restrict airflow. If you neglect to change your home’s HVAC air filter for an extended period, your HVAC system will have to work harder. It will run for a longer period while attempting to achieve the temperature set on the thermostat.

#2) One Size Fits All

When shopping for a new air filter, you’ll need to choose the right size. Air filters aren’t one size fits all. Some of them are bigger than others. When choosing a new air filter, check the length, width and thickness. Most air filters feature these three measurements. You’ll need to choose a new air filter in the right size for your HVAC system.

#3) Higher MERV Rating Is Better Than a Low MERV Rating

Air filters have a Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value (MERV) rating. Developed in the 1980s by the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE), it represents how effective an air filter is at removing small particles. The higher the MERV rating, the smaller the particles the air filter can remove. The problem with a high MERV rating, though, is that it restricts airflow. Less air will pass through a high-MERV air filter.

#4) Only Remove Dust        

Another common myth is that air filters only remove dust. The truth is that they can remove all types of airborne particulate matter. In addition to dust, air filters remove dander, pollen, bacteria, viruses and even mold spores.

#5) The Direction Doesn’t Matter

The direction in which you install the air filter absolutely matters. Most air filters aren’t omnidirectional. Rather, they are designed to face a specific direction when installed. You can refer to the arrow displayed on the side of the air filter to determine the appropriate direction. This arrow indicates airflow, and you should use it to determine the appropriate direction for installation.