5 Common Causes of Moldy Air Vents

If you’ve noticed mold growing on your air vents, you might be wondering what caused it. Most homes have one to two air vents per room. Rooms smaller than 100 square feet typically have a single air vent, whereas those larger than 100 square feet typically have two air vents. Whether some or all of your air vents are covered in mold, you should try to resolve the underlying problem.

#1) Clogged Condensate Drain Line

A clogged condensate drain line is a common cause of moldy air vents. Air conditioning systems, as well as heat pumps, have a drainage system near their indoor coil. Known as a condensate drain line, it’s designed to flush condensation to the home’s exterior. If it’s clogged, condensation will accumulate. It will build up in the drain pan, resulting in higher indoor humidity levels.

#2) Air Duct Leakage

You may notice mold growing on your air vents if there’s an air duct leakage. Air ducts are designed to be sealed. Sealed air ducts will allow your air conditioning system, heat pump and/or furnace to pressurize the conditioned air so that it moves throughout your home. If there’s a puncture in the ductwork, the conditioned air will leak out. At the same time, dust and debris will enter the ductwork through the puncture, at which point the dust and debris may collect on your air vents.

#3) Lack of Cleaning

Failure to clean your air vents regularly will place them at risk for mold growth. Mold thrives in humid environments – but it still needs organic matter. Dust is a form of organic matter. Over time, dust will accumulate on your air vents, thereby attracting mold. You can keep mold at bay by regularly cleaning your air vents.

#4) Oversized AC System

Using an air conditioning system that’s too big for your home may result in mold growing on your air vents. With an oversized air conditioning system, you’ll experience shorter cooling cycles. It may quickly cool your home, but the oversized air conditioning system won’t be able to properly dehumidify it. The end result is higher indoor humidity levels that increases the risk of mold growth on dusty surfaces.

#5) Low Refrigerant

If your air conditioning system is running low on refrigerant, it won’t be able to dehumidify your home. Dehumidification occurs at the evaporator coil. As moisture vapor condenses on the evaporator coil, it will drip into a pan below. This pan is connected to the condensate drain line. With low refrigerant levels, moisture may not condense on the evaporator coil, meaning your air conditioning system won’t dehumidify your home.

How to Prepare Your Heat Pump for the Upcoming Winter Season

With winter fast approaching, homeowners should use this opportunity to ensure that your heat pump is ready for the cool weather. Heat pumps aren’t used exclusively during the summer. While they feature many of the same parts as air conditioning systems, they offer both heating and cooling. You can use a heat pump to cool your home during the summer, and you can use it to warm your home during the winter. Here’s how to prepare your heat pump for the upcoming winter season.

Change the Air Filter

When was the last time you changed your heat pump’s air filter? If you’ve been using the same air filter for two months or longer, you may want to replace it before winter arrives.

Heat pumps rely on an air filter to remove contaminants from the air. As dirt and dust passes through your heat pump, it will land on the filter. Too much dirt and dust, though, will restrict the flow of air, resulting in poorer performance. Your heat pump may struggle to heat your home during the winter if the air filter is too dirty.

Check the Air Vents

You can prepare your heat pump for the upcoming winter season by checking the air vents. Go through your home while inspecting the air vents. All of the air vents should be open and unobstructed.

Closed or obstructed air vents can interfere with your heat pump’s ability to warm your home. The warm and conditioned air won’t be released out of supply vents if the vents are closed or obstructed. If a return vent is obstructed, conversely, your heat pump won’t be able to pull the indoor air to its heating components.

Test the Thermostat

Another tip to prepare your heat pump for the upcoming winter season is to test the thermostat. Switching the thermostat from cool to heat should activate your heat pump’s reversing valve. If it doesn’t, you’ll need to get the reversing valve fixed or replaced. Otherwise, you may not have heat this winter.

The reversing valve is the component that allows your heat pump to switch between heating and cooling. It changes the direction of the refrigerant based on the thermostat setting. To ensure the reversing valve is working properly, you should set the thermostat to heat. Setting it to heat should activate the reversing valve, thus changing the flow direction of the refrigerant so that your heat pump produces warm air.

Why Water Heaters Have an Expansion Tank

When inspecting your water heater, you may notice that it has a small tank attached to the top of it. Known as an expansion tank, it’s a common feature of tank-style water heaters. So, why do water heaters have an expansion tank?

What Is an Expansion Tank?

An expansion tank is a small tank that’s used to store heated water. When heated, water expands. Water heaters have an expansion tank to store this heated, expanded water. They are about one-fifth the size of the main tank. Expansion tanks are used exclusively for storing heated, expanded water.

The Importance of an Expansion Tank

Tank-style water heaters need an expansion tank so that the heated water has somewhere to go. There are tank-style and tankless-style water heaters. The former heats water preemptively, whereas the latter heater water only when demanded by homeowners and their family members. With a tank-style water heater, an expansion tank may be required. The expansion tank will temporarily store the heated and expanded water.

Tank-style water heaters are designed to withstand pressure. Most of them operate at about 50 to 100 pounds per square inch (PSI). As they heat the water in the main tank, they will be exposed to more pressure. Too much pressure, of course, can cause a tank-style water heater to rupture or even explode. An expansion tank will protect against catastrophic failure such as this by providing a safe place for the expanded water.

Open vs Closed Loop Water System

Depending on whether your home has an open or closed loop water system, it may or may not have an expansion tank on its water heater. Only water heaters on a closed loop water system typically require an expansion tank.

Open loop water systems are characterized by their bidirectional direction of water flow. The water can flow into a home with an open loop water system, and the water can flow out of a home with an open loop water system. Closed loop water systems are different in the sense that water can only flow one way: into the home.

If you have a closed loop water system, your water heater won’t have anywhere for the expanded water to go. The water may become too hot to the point where it overpressurizes the main tank. An expansion tank offers a solution. With an expansion tank, the expanded water will be temporarily stored in the expansion tank. Therefore, the main tank won’t become overpressurized.

HVAC Tip: Adjust Your Ceiling Fans According to the Season

If you regularly use the ceiling fans in your home, you should consider adjusting them according to the season. Ceiling fans don’t produce warm or cool air. They can still help to circulate air throughout your home, but you’ll have to rely on a heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system to change your home’s actual indoor temperature. Depending on the season, however, you may want to adjust the direction in which the ceiling fans spin.

Counterclockwise During the Summer

For the summer months, you should adjust your ceiling fans so that they spin counterclockwise. A counterclockwise motion will result in the air being pushed down.

The summer months are typically hot in Georgia and the surrounding Southeast. When running your air conditioning system, heat will rise to the ceilings while subsequently creating uneven temperatures. Adjusting your ceiling fans to a counterclockwise spinning motion will promote more even temperatures.

Clockwise During the Winter

For the winter months, you should adjust your ceiling fans so that they spin clockwise. While a counterclockwise motion will push the air down, a clockwise motion will push the air up.

As previously mentioned, heat rises. With a clockwise spinning motion, your ceiling fans will pull up the cooler air near the floor. It will essentially create an updraft, whereas a counterclockwise spinning motion will create a downdraft.

How to Adjust Ceiling Fan Direction

How do you change the direction in which your ceiling fans spin exactly? Depending on the type of ceiling fans you have installed in your home, they may feature a switch on the side. Known as a direction switch, it’s used specifically to change the direction in which the blades spin.

Pressing the direction switch will change your ceiling fans’ spinning direction. If a ceiling fan is currently spinning in the counterclockwise direction, pressing the direction switch will make it spin clockwise.

In Conclusion

When the weather gets colder, it's a good idea to change the rotation of your ceiling fans to clockwise. This creates a gentle updraft that pushes the warm air near the ceiling downward into the room. A clockwise spinning motion is particularly useful in rooms with high ceilings where the warm air often collects out of reach.

As the temperature increases, on the other hand, you should adjust your ceiling fans so that they rotate in a counterclockwise direction. This creates a pleasant breeze-like feeling that improves how well your air conditioning system works. The moving air also aids in evaporating moisture from your skin, giving you a comfortable sensation even when it's hot outside.

AC Systems: What Is Discharge Pressure?

Your air conditioning system relies on pressurized refrigerant to transfer heat from the inside of your home to the outside. Most residential and commercial air conditioning systems now run on R-410A. A type of hydrocarbon, R-410 is a chemical-based refrigerant that absorbs heat. But it will only work if it’s pressurized. Keep reading to learn more about a specific type of pressure in air conditioning systems known as discharge pressure.

Overview of Discharge Pressure

Discharge pressure is the pressure of the refrigerant in an air conditioning system as it leaves the compressor. The compressor’s job is to squeeze and pressurize the refrigerant. During this process, the refrigerant will become hotter.

The super-hot refrigerant will travel from the compressor to the condenser coil. With the help of a motorized fan, the condenser coil will release the refrigerant’s heat. Regardless, discharge pressure is a measurement of how pressurized the refrigerant is as it leaves the compressor and heads to the condenser coil. Suction pressure, in comparison, is a measurement of how pressurized the refrigerant is as it leaves the evaporator coil and heads to the compressor.

Discharge Pressure vs Static Pressure

You may hear the term “static pressure” used to describe heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems as well. Static pressure isn’t the same as discharge pressure. They are two different pressure-related measurements used in the HVAC industry.

Static pressure involves airflow, whereas discharge pressure involves refrigerant. More specifically, static pressure is resistance to airflow in the ductwork. Some HVAC systems have higher static pressure than others, resulting in greater airflow resistance. Discharge pressure is simply the pressure of the refrigerant after being compressed and pressurized by the compressor.

Why Discharge Pressure Is Important

Your air conditioning system’s discharge pressure will directly affect its ability to cool your home. The refrigerant must be properly pressurized as it leaves the compressor. If the pressure of the refrigerant is too low, it won’t be hot enough to effectively release heat. Therefore, you can expect poor cooling performance when running your air conditioning system.

An excessively low discharge pressure may indicate a leak. Air conditioning systems and their respective components can leak. When a breach occurs, refrigerant may leak out of the compromised component. Over time, this can result in low discharge pressure. There won’t be enough refrigerant in your air conditioning system, so the compressor won’t be able to fully pressurize it.

How Tall Ceilings Affect Your HVAC System

Does your home have tall ceilings? The average ceiling height of residential properties in the United States is 9 feet. Some homes, however, are built with taller ceilings than others. Tall ceilings create the perception of a more open indoor space, which many homeowners prefer. But tall ceilings can also affect heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems.

Larger Required AC System and Furnace

You’ll need a larger air conditioning system and furnace if your home has tall ceilings. Tall ceilings create more air volume, and with more air in your home, you’ll need an air conditioning system and furnace that can handle it.

Longer Cycles

Tall ceilings may promote longer cooling and heating cycles. Your air conditioning system and furnace will have to run for a longer period of time to achieve the temperature on the thermostat. Only after producing enough conditioned air – and distributing the conditioned air throughout your entire home – will the cycle end.

Increased Energy Usage

With longer cooling and heating cycles, tall ceilings will force your HVAC system to consume more energy. Whether it’s cooling or heating your home, your HVAC system will consume more energy. This is attributed to the fact that tall ceilings promote longer cooling and heating cycles. The longer your HVAC system runs, the more energy it will consume. Tall ceilings create more space or air volume in your home, so your HVAC system will have to consume more energy as it attempts to heat or cool your home.

Increased Comfort During the Summer

On the other hand, tall ceilings may leave you and your family feeling more comfortable during the hot summer months. Going back to the basics of physics 101, heat rises. When running your air conditioning system, hot air will naturally rise as the cool and conditioned air stays low. This means you’ll feel cooler and more comfortable.

Return Registers

Tall ceilings also offer an alternative placement for return registers. Return registers, of course, are vents that funnel air from your home’s living spaces to your HVAC system. In some homes, they are installed exclusively on the floor. In other homes, return registers are found on the ceilings.

Tall ceilings are particularly effective for return registers in hot climates, such as Georgia and the surrounding Southeast. They will draw hot air back to the air conditioning system. If you only have floor- or other low-level return registers in your home, the cool and conditioned air will be funneled back to your air conditioning system.

5 Things You Need to Know About Air-Source Heat Pumps

When researching heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technologies, you may encounter air-source heat pumps. It’s commonly used in the Southeast. While some Georgia homes feature a traditional air conditioning system, others feature an air-source heat pump. Before making the switch, though, there are several things you need to know about air-source heat pumps.

#1) Work Like Traditional AC Systems

Air-source heat pumps work like traditional air conditioning systems. They feature two coils, a compressor, refrigerant and ductwork. One of the coils is installed indoors. The other coil is installed outdoors. Refrigerant will absorb heat at the indoor coil, and it will release this heat at the outdoor coil.

#2) Performs Cooling and Heating

Considering that they work like traditional air conditioning systems, you might be wondering how air-source heat pumps differ from their traditional counterparts. The main difference is that traditional air conditioning systems only provide cooling, whereas air-source heat pumps provide cooling and heating.

#3) Leverage a Reversing Valve

To switch between cooling and heating, air-source heat pumps leverage a device known as a reversing valve. The reversing valve controls the direction in which the refrigerant travels. Like traditional air conditioning systems, air-source heat pumps move refrigerant around in a closed environment. Refrigerant will travel from one coil to the other coil, followed by repeating the cycle.

When refrigerant goes from the indoor coil to the outdoor coil, the air-source heat pump will provide cooling. When it goes from the outdoor coil to the indoor coil, the air-source heat pump will provide heating. The reversing valve controls the refrigerant’s flow direction, allowing for both heating and cooling.

#4) Up to 50% More Efficient Than Furnaces

Air-source heat pumps are known for being energy efficient. When compared to electric furnaces, they are up to 50% more efficient. Air-source heat pumps offer similar efficiency levels for cooling as traditional air conditioning systems. Nonetheless, they are highly efficient at warming the homes in which they are used. This is because air-source heat pumps transfer heat from the outside of a home to the home’s interior. Electric furnaces, on the other hand, have heating elements that require a steady flow of electricity to produce heat.

#5) Differs From Ground-Source Heat Pumps

Most heat pumps fall under one of two categories: air source of ground source. Air-source heat pumps are the most common. They work by pumping heat from the indoor air or outdoor air and transferring it to the opposing space. Ground-source heat pumps, in comparison, work by pumping heat from the ground and transferring it indoors or vice versa.

How a Leaking Compressor Will Affect Your AC System

If you have a leaking compressor, you might be wondering how it will affect your air conditioning system. Compressors are pressure-inducing devices. In air conditioning systems, they are used to increase the pressure of the refrigerant. Compressors raise the pressure – and therefore the temperature – of the refrigerant at the condenser coil. This allows the condenser coil to release more heat.

Compressors, unfortunately, can leak. Since they are designed to work in a closed, sealed environment, even a small hairline breach in a compressor will result in a leak. The pressurized refrigerant will “push” its way out of the compressor at the hairline breach. So, how will a leaking compressor affect your air conditioning system?

Refrigerant Loss

A leaking compressor will result in refrigerant loss. Most air conditioning systems use about 2 to 4 pounds of heat-transferring refrigerant per cooling capacity tonnage. They can’t produce their own refrigerant, however. During installation, a technician will pump the appropriate amount of refrigerant into an air conditioning system. The refrigerant will continue to cycle throughout the air conditioning system over its usable life.

With a leaking compressor, your air conditioning system will have less refrigerant running through it. Refrigerant will leak out as it travels through the compressors. This will cause a gradual loss of refrigerant.

Frozen Evaporator Coil

Your air conditioning system’s evaporator coil may freeze if the compressor is leaking. The leak will cause lower refrigerant levels, which in turn causes a reduction in pressure.

The pressure of the refrigerant within the evaporator coil will drop with a leaking compressor. In turn, moisture vapor will settle and freeze on the evaporator coil.

Warm Air

Another way a leaking compressor will affect your air conditioning system is warm air. When functioning properly, your air conditioning system should produce cool air – typically at about 10 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit cooler than the unconditioned air. If the compressor is leaking, though, it may not provide sufficient cooling.

Increased Energy Usage

A leaking compressor will make your air conditioning system less efficient. Air conditioning systems consume energy when running. The amount of energy they consume during a given period is heavily dependent upon their cooling capacity and their total runtime during that period. The longer your air conditioning system runs during a period, the more it will cost you in utility expenses.

Neglecting to fix a leaking compressor will promote a longer runtime. Your air conditioning system will likely run for a longer length of time. The leaking compressor will interfere with its ability to transfer heat from inside your home to outside your home, resulting in a longer runtime and higher utility expenses.

Why Your Air Ducts Are Making a Popping Sound

Do your air ducts make a popping sound? All central heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems have air ducts. After warming or cooling the air, your HVAC system will send this conditioned air into the ducts so that it can be distributed throughout your home. As your HVA turns on – or while it’s running – you may hear sounds coming from these hollow conduits, such as a popping sound.

Closed Air Vents

Closing the air vents in your home may result in a popping sound originating from the ductwork. As conditioned air travels through the air ducts, it will exit the supply vents, thereby supplying the respective rooms with conditioned air. If you close most or all of the supply vents to which a particular air duct is connected, the air duct’s pressure will increase. This additional pressure may manifest in the form of a popping sound.

Loose or Sagging Air Ducts

Loose or sagging air ducts may make a popping sound. Most residential air ducts are made of a flexible material. When your HVAC system turns on, they will expand and flex. Loose or sagging air ducts, however, may move around excessively during this process. The sudden rush of air flowing through them will cause them to shift, which can manifest in the form of a popping sound.

Leaks

Leaks in your air ducts may cause a popping sound. Air ducts are designed to be sealed. After all, any gaps or openings will allow conditioned air to escape into unused spaces of your home, such as the attic or basement. But leaks can and do occur.

Improper installation or exposure to vibrations can cause air ducts to leak. When your HVAC system turns on, you may hear a popping sound originating from the location of the weak. Since air ducts are sealed and pressure, conditioned air will take the path of least resistance: the leak. The conditioned air will rush into the air ducts, at which point it will rush through the leak while potentially creating a popping sound.

Undersized Ductwork

Undersized ductwork may result in a popping sound. If they are too small, they may not be able to handle the pressure created by your HVAC system. Undersized ductwork is more sensitive to pressure changes than properly sized ductwork. When exposed to high pressure, they may flex excessively. This flexing may cause a popping sound.

What Happens If Your AC System Doesn’t Have an Expansion Valve?

The expansion valve plays an important role in your air conditioning system’s operations. Also known as the thermostatic expansion valve, it’s found on the evaporator coil. As coolant travels from the condenser coil to the evaporator coil, it must pass through the expansion valve. The expansion valve will regulate how much refrigerant enters the evaporator coil. What happens if your air conditioning system doesn’t have an expansion valve exactly?

Overpressurized Evaporator Coil

Without an expansion valve, your air conditioning system’s evaporator coil will become overpressurized. The expansion valve doesn’t just regulate how much refrigerant enters the evaporator coil; it regulates the pressure of the refrigerant within the evaporator coil.

The expansion valve works by only allowing some refrigerant to pass through it. As the refrigerant exits the expansion valve, it will fill the interior of the evaporator coil. If your air conditioning system doesn’t have an expansion valve, there won’t be anything to stop all of the refrigerant from entering the evaporator coil. Your air conditioning system’s evaporator coil will receive too much refrigerant, resulting in overpressurization.

Lack of Cooling Power

Your air conditioning system won’t be able to cool your home without an evaporator coil. Cooling requires a rapid drop in temperature at the evaporator coil. Normally, the temperature of the refrigerant will drop as the pressure drops. The expansion valve will lower the pressure of the refrigerant within the evaporator coil, thereby allowing the temperature of the refrigerant to drop. If there’s not an expansion valve present, neither the pressure nor the temperature of the refrigerant will drop.

Refrigerant will remain hot within your air conditioning system’s evaporator. As the fan blows air over the evaporator coil, it will produce warm air that enters the ductwork. The end result is a lack of cooling power.

Lack of Dehumidification

Without an expansion valve, your air conditioning system won’t be able to dehumidify your home. Dehumidification occurs at the evaporator coil. Airborne moisture vapor will condense on your air conditioning system’s evaporator coil. This moisture will drip into a pan below, allowing it to drain to your home’s exterior.

Airborne moisture vapor, though, will only condense on a cold evaporator coil. If there’s not an expansion valve present, the evaporator coil will remain warm. Therefore, dehumidification won’t occur.  You need a functional expansion valve to lower the pressure and temperature of the refrigerant as it enters the evaporator coil.

Does the Location of Your Water Heater Really Matter?

Not all water heaters are installed in the same location. Some homes have their water heater in the garage, whereas others have their water heater in the crawlspace or basement. Alternatively, the water heater may be installed in a separate closet. So, does the location of the water heater really matter?

Yes, the Location Matters

When it comes to water heaters, the location absolutely matters. Water heaters, of course, are designed to heat the water in a home. The location in which a water heater is installed may affect its performance, efficiency and safety.

Building Codes

There are building codes that govern the location of water heaters. You can’t just install a water heater anywhere in your home. Rather, you’ll need to comply with local building codes.

Ventilation

Depending on the specific type of water heater, it may require ventilation. Some water heaters produce exhaust gases as a byproduct of heating the water. These exhaust gases must be vented to the home’s exterior. Therefore, these water heaters are usually installed on an exterior wall.

Space

There needs to be enough space in a given area to accommodate a water heater. Some water heaters stand over 70 inches tall. Tank-style water heaters, though, are typically taller and bigger than their tankless counterparts. If you’re planning to invest in a tankless water heater, you can choose a smaller space thanks to their compact design.

Maintenance

Water heaters must be installed in a location where they can be accessed for maintenance purposes. All water heaters require maintenance. You’ll need to get your water heater professionally inspected. If it has a pilot light, you may have to relight it. If you can’t easily access your water heater, you won’t be able to properly maintain it.

Pipe Distance

Another reason the location matters is pipe distance. Whether tank or tankless, all water heaters must transfer heated water to faucets and showerheads via pipes. Installing a water heater near these faucets and showerheads will result in shorter pipe distances. The heated water won’t have to travel as far, resulting in improved efficiency.

Insulation

Some water heater locations are better insulated than others. Insulation is particularly important for tank-style water heaters. Tank-style water heaters work by storing heated water in a tank. If there’s little or no insulation around a tank-style water heater, it will have to consume more energy to keep the water hot.

Superheat and Your AC System: What You Should Know

The heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) industry uses some rather confusing terms, one of which is superheat. It’s used in conjunction with air conditioning systems and heat pumps.

Air conditioning systems and heat pumps both leverage refrigerant to cool the homes in which they are installed. They absorb heat from inside the homes, and refrigerant will carry this heat to the outdoors where it’s released at the condenser unit. Superheat, however, will affect the refrigerant’s ability to absorb and transfer heat.

What Is Superheat?

Superheat is the difference between the actual temperature of a gas substance and the saturation temperature of that same substance.

Liquids will turn to gas when heated to a high enough temperature. Water, for instance, turns to steam at 212 degrees Fahrenheit. This same principle applies to refrigerant in air conditioning systems and heat pumps. If it gets hot enough, refrigerant will turn from a liquid state to a gas state. Air conditioning systems are actually designed to use refrigerant in both a liquid and gas state. As refrigerant travels through the coils, it will transition between these two states.

When used in the context of HVAC systems, superheat is the difference between the temperature of refrigerant in a gas state and the refrigerant’s saturation temperature. Generally speaking, it offers insight into heat absorption. Superheat reveals how much heat the refrigerant has absorbed.

How Superheat Affects Your AC System

Refrigerant needs to boil off after leaving the evaporator coil. This will allow the condenser coil to release more heat while simultaneously protecting the compressor from damage. If liquid refrigerant enters the compressor, it may cause damage that’s difficult and expensive to fix. Therefore, air conditioning systems and heat pumps are designed to boil off refrigerant as it leaves the evaporator coil and heads to the condenser coil.

If the superheat is too high, it means there’s more liquid refrigerant in your air conditioning system. If this liquid refrigerant makes its way to the compressor, it may cause damage. If the superheat is too low, conversely, it means there’s more gas refrigerant in your air conditioning system.

HVAC technicians can use superheat to determine the temperature at which refrigerant will boil off and, thus, turn to steam. As a homeowner, you don’t need to worry about your air conditioning system’s superheat. Superheat is an HVAC industry term that’s typically used for troubleshooting cooling problems.

Mini-Split AC Maintenance Checklist

Mini-split air conditioning systems offer a convenient cooling alternative to central air conditioning systems. Also known as ductless air conditioning systems, they feature many of the same parts as their central counterparts but without the ductwork. Mini-split air conditioning systems feature a condenser coil, an evaporator coil, a compressor, air filter and fan (among other things). When using a mini-split air conditioning system to cool your home, however, you’ll need to maintain it.

Clean the Coils

You’ll need to clean the coils to ensure optimal performance and efficiency. Mini-split air conditioning systems have an evaporator coil that’s located indoors, and they have a condenser coil that’s located outdoors. Over time, debris will build up on the surface of these coils. If left unchecked, this debris will interfere with the heat exchange process.

Try to get into the habit of cleaning your mini-split air conditioning system’s coils twice a year. Clean coils will result in better cooling performance and efficiency.

Clean the Air Filter

Another important maintenance task for mini-split air conditioning systems is cleaning the air filter. While central air conditioning systems use a disposable air filter, most mini-split units have a washable air filter. Therefore, you won’t have to buy a new air filter; you can simply wash your unit’s existing air filter.

You should clean your mini-split air conditioning system’s air filter at least once a month. A clean air filter will allow air to circulate through the unit more easily. At the same time, it will protect your mini-split air conditioning system from unnecessary wear and tear.

Professional Inspection

There are some maintenance tasks that only a qualified heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technician can perform. If your mini-split air conditioning system has a refrigerant leak, for instance, you’ll need an HVAC technician. You can prevent problems such as this from occurring, though, by getting your unit professionally inspected at least once a year.

Inspect the Drainage Line

A maintenance task that many homeowners overlook is inspecting the drainage line. Mini-split air conditioning systems produce condensation. Airborne moisture vapor will condense on the evaporator coil. It will then travel through a drainage line leading to your home’s exterior.

Drainage lines can become clogged, however. Mildew may grow inside of your unit’s drainage line, thereby restricting the flow of water. And if water can’t flow through the drainage line, it will back up in your home.

Why Your AC System Keeps Blowing Its Fuse

Does your air conditioning system constantly blow its fuse? Air conditioning systems have safeguards in place to protect against overcurrent, such as a fuse. It’s typically located in the disconnection box. Next to your air conditioning system’s condenser unit is the disconnection box. Within this box is a fuse.

Fuses are electrical devices consisting of a conductive pathway. They are designed to protect against overcurrent by only allowing a certain amount of electricity to flow through them. If the current exceeds this amount, the fuse will “blow.” Blown fuses are essentially broken so that electricity can no longer flow through them. Here are several possible reasons your air conditioning system keeps blowing its fuse.

Dirty Air Filter

Something as simple as a dirty air filter can cause your air conditioning system to blow its fuse. Air filters are designed to remove dirt, dust, dander and other particulate matter from the air. As this airborne debris accumulates on the air filter, your air conditioning system will suffer from restricted airflow.

A dirty air filter will force your air conditioning system to work harder because of the restricted airflow. It will run for a longer length of time – all while placing a greater load on your home’s electrical system.

Faulty Capacitor

A faulty capacitor may result in a blown fuse. Capacitors are devices that store electricity. Air conditioning systems use capacitors to start up and run. Known as start and run capacitors, respectively, they power the compressor and fan motors.

Capacitors can fail. Depending on the type of failure, it may cause your air conditioning system to blow its fuse. The start or run capacitor may provide too much electricity to your air conditioning system. To protect against overcurrent, your air conditioning system’s fuse will then blow.

Low Refrigerant

Your air conditioning system may blow its fuse if it’s low on refrigerant. Refrigerant is the chemical that facilitates the heat exchange process. Air conditioning systems don’t just produce cool air from nothing. Rather, they work by transferring heat from inside your home to outside your home.

Low refrigerant will place an extra strain on your air conditioning system. Without an adequate amount of refrigerant, your air conditioning system will have to run for longer; even then, it may not be able to cool your home. This additional strain may manifest in the form of electrical problems, such as blown fuses or circuit breakers tripping.

The Parts of an Air Handling Unit: What You Should Know

An air handling unit is an essential component of many heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems. Also known as an air handler, it circulates air through the equipment and into the ductwork. If you have a heat pump-based HVAC system, it probably has an air handling unit. The air handling unit is a large box-shaped unit that’s installed indoors. It typically contains the following parts.

Blower

The blower is a motorized fan that’s responsible for circulating air into the ductwork. As the fan spins, it will move air into the ductwork so that it can be distributed throughout your home. The fan will turn on automatically when your HVAC system is heating or cooling your home. You can also turn on the fan manually at the thermostat.

Coil

Your air handling unit probably has a coil. Coils are used in both conventional air conditioning systems as well as heat pumps. They both feature an indoor coil and an outdoor coil. Conventional air conditioning systems and heat pumps use these two coils to transfer heat.

Assuming you have a heat pump, you can expect to find the indoor coil in the air handling unit. When cooling your home, the heat pump will transfer heat from the indoor coil to the outdoor coil. When heating your home, the heat pump will transfer heat from the outdoor coil to the indoor coil.

Air Filter

Nearly all air handling units contain an air filter. The air filter is typically found directly below the blower. Upon turning on, the blower will pull air from the surrounding space through the air filter. The air filter will then clean the air by removing dust and other forms of particulate matter.

There should be a panel on the front of your air handling unit that you can remove or open to access the air filter. Once every few months, you’ll need to change the air filter to ensure your HVAC system works efficiently.

Dampers

If your HVAC system is zoned, the air handling unit may contain dampers. Dampers are valve-like devices that control the flow of air. They are positioned to redirect air to specific air ducts.

A two-story home, for instance, may have a separate zone for the upstairs and a separate zone for the downstairs. The dampers in the air handling unit will determine which zone or zones receive the conditioned air. Along with the blower, a coil and air filter, dampers are commonly found in air handling units.

What Are Contactors for AC Systems?

Are you familiar with contactors for air conditioning systems? Central air conditioning systems contain a variety of electrical parts, such as contactors. Contactors work by controlling the flow of electricity. Because they act as mediums for electricity, though, they can burn out.

Overview of Contactors

A contactor is an electrical device that either allows or prohibits electricity from traveling through it. Contactors work like a switch: They are made of a conductive material, such as copper, through which electricity can travel. A contactor can remain closed so that electricity can travel through, or it can open to block the passage of electricity.

How Contactors Work

Contactors work in conjunction with thermostats. Thermostats are interfaces that allow homeowners to control their air conditioning systems (and their furnaces). When it’s time for your air conditioning system to turn on, the thermostat will send a signal to the contactor. The contactor will then close so that electricity can travel through it.

Most condenser units contain a contactor. The condenser unit is the large box-like assembly outside of your home. Among other things, it contains your air conditioning system’s compressor, condenser coil and condenser fan.

The contactor works by providing power to electrical-driven parts like the compressor and condenser fan. When it receives the signal from the thermostat, the contactor will close so that electricity can reach these parts. After your air conditioning system has completed its cooling cycle, the thermostat will send another signal to the contactor telling it to open.

Common Problems With Contactors

One of the most common problems with contacts is burnout. Contactors are designed specifically to allow or prohibit electricity from traveling through them. Therefore, they can overheat and even burn out. As electricity travels through a contactor, it will heat up. Over time, this heat may permanently damage the contactor, in which case it may no longer be conductive.

Contactors can also get stuck. All contactors have two available positions: open or closed. They will switch between these positions based on signals sent by the thermostat. But contactors can get stuck, meaning they won’t be able to change their position.

Rather than switching, they will remain in their current position. Contactors can get stuck open, in which case electricity won’t be able to travel through them, or they can get stuck closed, meaning electricity will always be able to travel through them.

Start Capacitors: 5 Things You Need to Know

Your air conditioning system contains more than just coils, a compressor and fans. While there are different types of air conditioning systems, most of them contain capacitors as well. There are start capacitors, for instance. Regardless of your air conditioning system’s cooling capacity, it probably has one or more start capacitors. Here are five things you need to know about start capacitors and how they work.

#1) Provides Stored Energy

Start capacitors are designed to provide stored energy. They are known as “start capacitors” because they use this energy to start the cooling cycle. Air conditioning systems are electric, but some of their parts need a jolt of energy to get going. Start capacitors provide this jolt of energy. They will store energy, and when your air conditioning turns on, the start capacitors will provide the necessary parts with this energy.

#2) Used With Fan Motors

What parts use start capacitors exactly? Because of their high energy usage – when compared to other parts – fan motors often use them. Your air conditioning system has a compressor fan and a blower fan. Compressor fans are found in the condenser unit, whereas blower fans are found in the air handler. Most air conditioning systems use start capacitors for the compressor fan and the blower fan.

#3) Not the Same as Run Capacitors

Start capacitors aren’t the same as run capacitors. Start capacitors provide stored energy to begin the cooling cycle. Run capacitors, on the other hand, provide consistent energy to maintain the cooling cycle as needed. Run capacitors will both store and release energy. Using this energy, the aforementioned fan motors will continue running without any major ups or downs in voltage.

#4) Some AC Systems Use Dual Capacitors

In addition to start and run capacitors, there are dual capacitors. Dual capacitors function as both a start and run capacitor. They will provide the stored energy needed to begin the cooling cycle, and they will keep the fans going. Some air conditioning systems use separate start and run capacitors, but others use dual capacitors.

#5) Failure May Prevent the Fan From Turning On

If a start capacitor fails, the fan with which it’s used may not turn on. Compressor fans and blower fans require energy to start up, which the start capacitor provides. Start capacitors can fail, however. They may no longer hold or provide energy. And without this energy, the fan may turn on. So, if one of your air conditioning system’s fans isn’t turning on, a bad start capacitor may be to blame.

The Life Expectancy of a Heat Pump

If you’re thinking about purchasing a heat pump for your home, you might be wondering how long it will last. Heat pumps are known for their energy-efficiency properties. According to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE), they use about half as much electricity as resistance heating systems, such as electric furnaces and baseboard heaters.

But heat pumps can cool homes as well. They work by changing the direction of the refrigerant, which can heat or cool indoor spaces depending on the particular direction. So, how long does a heat pump last?

Average Lifespan of 15 to 20 Years

New heat pumps have an average lifespan of about 15 to 20 years. Some of them, of course, may last longer, and others may fail before reaching the 15-year mark. Regardless, most modern-day heat pumps will last about 15 to 20 years.

Factors That Affect the Lifespan of a Heat Pump

Several factors play a role in the lifespan of a heat pump, one of which is the climate. Heat pumps have to work harder in cold climates. They provide heating by transferring heat from the outdoors to the home’s interior. If it’s particularly cold outside, the heat pump may struggle to absorb a sufficient amount of heat for this to occur.

Maintenance, or lack thereof, will affect the lifespan of a heat pump. Heat pumps require just as much maintenance as conventional heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems. You’ll need to change the air filter on a regular basis, and you’ll need to get the heat pump professionally inspected and “tuned up” once a year. Neglecting to maintain the heat pump will result in a shorter lifespan.

Another factor that plays a role in a heat pump’s lifespan is the size. Heat pumps are available in different sizes. The size, as measured in tonnage or British Thermal Units (BTUs), represents the heating and cooling capacity of a heat pump. Bigger heat pumps have a higher heating and cooling capacity than their smaller counterparts.

To make your heat pump last, you should choose a size that’s appropriate for your home. If your heat pump is too big, it will experience short cycling. Short cycling occurs when an air conditioning system or heat pump experiences short cooling cycles. Oversized heat pumps will turn on, and after quickly cooling the surrounding space, they’ll turn back off. These repeated on-and-off cycles can increase wear and tear while potentially shortening the heat pump’s lifespan.

The Impact of a Dirty Condenser Coil

Have you noticed dirt or debris covering your air conditioning system’s condenser coil? Because they are installed outdoors, condenser coils typically get dirtier than evaporator coils, the latter of which are installed indoors. Grass, dust, mildew and even bugs may accumulate on your air conditioning system’s condenser coil. How will this affect your air conditioning system’s performance exactly?

Less Cooling Power

Your air conditioning system will have less cooling power with a dirty condenser coil. Both condenser coils and evaporator coils are heat exchangers. They are designed to transfer heat from one space to another space.

The evaporator coil is designed to absorb heat, meaning it will transfer heat from your home’s interior to the interior of the evaporator coil. The condenser coil is designed to release heat, meaning it will transfer heat from the interior of the condenser coil to the exterior of your home. If your air conditioning system has an excessively dirty condenser coil, it may struggle to release heat.

Compressor Wear and Tear

A dirty condenser coil can wear down your air conditioning system’s compressor. Your air conditioning system will run for a longer length of time. It won’t be able to achieve the temperature set on the thermostat, resulting in long cooling cycles. Like with short cooling cycles, long cooling cycles can wear down the compressor.

High Energy Usage

Your air conditioning system will consume more energy with a dirty condenser coil. Central air conditioning systems run on electricity, which they use to power everything from the compressor to the condenser fan and air handler blower.

A dirty condenser coil means your air conditioning system will have to run for a long time – perhaps indefinitely until you turn it off. As long as it’s running, your air conditioning system will consume energy.

Cleaning a Dirty Condenser Coil

You don’t have to replace the condenser coil just because it’s dirty. Assuming it’s still intact and not cracked or otherwise damaged, you can get it cleaned.

Professional HVAC technicians know how to clean dirty condenser coils. They can open up your condenser unit to access the dirty coil, after which they can clean it using the proper tools. During this cleaning process, HVAC technicians can also check to ensure the fins are straight. If any of the fins on your condenser coil are bent, the HVAC technician may offer to strengthen them using a fin comb.

Rusted AC Condensate Pans: Should You Be Worried?

Does your air conditioning system have a rusted condensate pan? If so, you might be wondering whether it’s a concern. Rust consists of iron oxide. It’s the result of a chemical reaction between oxygen – typically oxygen in water – and iron. When iron is exposed to oxygen, it may turn into rust. So, should you be worried about a rusted condensate pan?

Overview of the Condensate Pan

The condensate pan is a small, shallow pan that’s designed to collect the condensation produced by the evaporator coil. Also known as the drip pan, it plays an important role in dehumidification.

Airborne moisture vapor will condense on the evaporator coil when your air conditioning system is running. As it collects, the moisture vapor will form droplets that drip into the condensate pan below. From there, the water will drain through a pipe leading to your home’s exterior.

Rust Can Cause Water to Leak Out of the Condensate Pan

Rust is more than just an aesthetic issue; it can cause water to leak out of the condensate pan.

Over time, rust can eat through metal objects, including condensate pans. Once your condensate pan has been breached, it may no longer contain the water from the evaporator coil. Some of the water may leak out of the rusted holes or cracks. Depending on where your condensate pan and evaporator coil are located, this may lead to structural damage.

If your condensate pan and evaporator coil are located in the attic, the leaking water may damage your ceilings. If they are located in the basement, the leaking water may damage the foundation or surrounding walls.

In addition to structural damage, the leaking water will raise your home’s humidity levels. Your air conditioning system can only dehumidify your home if the water drains out of the condensate pan through the pipe. If it leaks out of the rusted hole or crack, your home will become more humid. The water will evaporate back into your home’s living space, thus raising your home’s humidity levels.

How to Fix a Rusted Condensate Pan

To protect your home from water damage, you should replace your condensate pan if it’s rusted. Condensate pans are relatively cheap. You can contact a heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technician to purchase a new condensate pan. The HVAC technician can even install it so that you have peace of mind knowing it’s set up correctly.